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Tale of Four Walders
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Kikaider



Joined: 24 Nov 2006
Posts: 128

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, I think Smooth-On makes a softer resin (I bought some a while back but haven't had a chance to use it), but without pigment it will cure to a light amber color (so you couldn't do a clear henshin cyborg head, body, etc...). That said, even the TASK 9 which is supposed to be their hardest resin (which is amber and perfect for tinting), can be heated (I use a hair dryer in a bucket, well kind of) and softened really easily. The only thing I am apprehensive of is the possible reaction between the resin pieces with vintage parts.

Awesome looking Mego collection, Guy!
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GUYx1
Site Admin


Joined: 10 May 2006
Posts: 1493

PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice on the smooth-on, as well as the kudos.
good point about the soft resin potentially reacting with the crystaline plastic!!! Shocked

Hypno, thanks for the info on why I am not getting my stuff.
Nobody in mego world ever offers any explanation.

Actually that is NOT the mego collection per se. Those are just the customs I threw together last fall. My last hurrah of customizing as I was laid off,.
It all blew up in my face, as I am still waiting on parts and just got burnt out on the whole process. I now have a huge tub of specially silk screened costumed headless mego dolls. Sad (whoo-hoo!)
Every month or so, I think of another head I forgot to jot down that never arrived. (such as mego hitler)

Yes the mego sculpt quality varies considerably. Sad The best are sized up from toybiz. The worst are BLOW UP heads made from superpowers figures. Those look like the pillsbury doughboy.
Like the Deathlok, I repurchased BETTER heads, so interest in doing a nice paint job was pretty much thrown aside.
Why do 3 coats of paint when I am not gonna even use the head.
But my head orders are still in the queue. I think it was 30 some heads and parts that never arrived.
I dropped about $2000 total. Purchasing & repurchasing parts.
always waiting weeks to months. Sad

This was before I learned that many (not all) of the awesome sculpts came from the little marvel busts, but were never RESIZED, so they do not look quite right on a mego doll. It is a crapshoot.

Again, yet another reason to actually buy the stuff at the mego convention. I would have actually saved money that way.
Mego world is not run at all like 1/6 world.
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Guy
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Neutron X



Joined: 27 May 2006
Posts: 924

PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The imperfect art of customizing can be terribly frustarting.
I am a strong believer in do it yourself. Not that this has helped me much to achieve all my custom pieces.

Has anyone tried to do what Japanese fans have done and just do a limited run of 50? Too much cash?

I have seen smoothon hollow Joe heads but it is very tricky to do.
You have to rotate the head slowly
and plug up the hole where casting material is. This may not be possible with clear resin because of the air bubbles.

Why not cast heads with neck posts already attached as one piece? It is possible to make a neck post mold too!
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Kikaider



Joined: 24 Nov 2006
Posts: 128

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man Guy, what a horrible story about the Mego custom stuff. I remember the first time I had ever come across Mego custom stuff on the web and someone had so many different heads for sale, and a couple of years later all I could find was Dr. Mego' site a couple of others but nothing like I had seen before. I figured it must have gone "under ground" by that time. Your post confirms what I thought must have happened.
I loved looking at all the different heads but figure I would be dead broke if I ever started Mego customizing. I love the new type muscular bodies that some customizers made, although I heard the old school Mego collectors aren't really excited about them.

Hey Neutron, I read somewhere that one of the casting companies (might have been Smooth-On or the Hydro Span folks (something Polymers?)) now make a slush casting material to do hollow parts (I think there is even a casting group on Yahoo where you can get the plans to make a simple roto-cast machine), but I haven't looked into it at any length.

I was trying to pick up Muton' pieces (I have the head from childhood but nothing else!) to try and due a copy with different colors but I haven't been able to pick one up within my budget yet. Like I said before, my greatest worry is the reaction between the two plastics. I would definitely put some saran wrap around the original parts before putting the repos on.

I think the best way to do the clear heads (if flexible urethane is not available), would be to cast the head with a slightly bigger hole than the inner brain, make a cast of the brain (coat with mold release), then fill the hole in the head with clear scilicone and insert the casted brain, after a couple of days remove the casted brain and place the clear head (w/ cleared scilicone inside) on the orginal figure. I would imagine that might work.
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hypnotator



Joined: 10 May 2006
Posts: 1525

PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itís great to get advice from the time served customizers here. Thanks, boys.

Quote:
even the TASK 9 which is supposed to be their hardest resin (which is amber and perfect for tinting), can be heated (I use a hair dryer in a bucket, well kind of) and softened really easily.


Crikey, why a bucket? I wouldnít want to try heating the clear resin Iíve been using once it has hardened. Perhaps I havenít been getting the quantity of catalyst right, but I donít think so; this stuff is seriously tacky and sticky when you first remove it from the mould and takes a couple of days to harden properly afterwards. Touching it before it has hardened is to be avoided. I would worry that heating it might make it sticky again. Anyway, this stuff is so hard when dried that I canít imagine it becoming at all pliable with heat, or pliable enough to stretch over other parts.

Is this ďSmooth-onĒ (what a name!) as pliable as vinyl, then? It would be of little use to me, anyway, unless they did a transparent one. And yes, I figured that some sort of rotating device would be needed to do hollow heads. You can see the drips inside a Takara HC head as evidence that they were done this way. This all sounds a bit involved for me. I donít have a workshop and itís been difficult doing the small scale stuff that I have been doing in the dining room at the same desk as the computer, stinking the house out with smelly epoxy, not to mention sawing and drilling. Mrs. Hypnotator and the little Hypnotators have been pushed to a new level of toy tolerance.

Quote:
Why not cast heads with neck posts already attached as one piece? It is possible to make a neck post mold too!


That is a damn good idea and I might try it.

Quote:
I think the best way to do the clear heads (if flexible urethane is not available), would be to cast the head with a slightly bigger hole than the inner brain, make a cast of the brain (coat with mold release), then fill the hole in the head with clear scilicone and insert the casted brain, after a couple of days remove the casted brain and place the clear head (w/ cleared scilicone inside) on the orginal figure. I would imagine that might work.


Iím trying to picture this. First off, casting the head with any kind of hollow recess inside sounds tricky to me. Is the idea to have a soft silicone core that will hug the brain? What is saran wrap please?
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Kikaider



Joined: 24 Nov 2006
Posts: 128

PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buckett was a poor choice of words. It is more like a closed ended tunnel that I stick the casted pieces in and then put the hair dryer at the open end. Saran wrap is just clear plastic wrap that you would place around food to keep it fresh. It would be a thin/clear barrier between the original part and the casted plastic to hopefully prevent any reaction between the two. Yeah, different resins, urethanes, epoxies have varying drying/ curing times. I have two clear epoxy glues that dry clear and one with set in a minute and the other sets in 24 hours. Sometime I use too much color pigment and the casted piece remains sticky (write-off). I should mention that every Smooth-On product I used needed to be put in the pressure pot with compressed air to make sure there were no air bubbles in the cast.

The two part urethanes from Smooth-On come in different Shore Hardness (please see following chart) http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm

Some of the plastics cure transparent but are not devoid of color like a Henshin Cyborg. They do have a clear casting resin or urethane that I haven't used but everyone tells me that it won't cure crystal clear and needs polishing. There probably is something out there that will do the job, though. Sorry if all this info. seems convoluted. I am posting from work, so I am making it quick. Please don't hesitate to ask me any questions and I will do my best to help.

PS. My girlfriend has the patience of a saint when it comes to my casting and molding. I think the dining room table has been out of service for the last year!
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hypnotator



Joined: 10 May 2006
Posts: 1525

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been using "Bonda" clear casting epoxy resin. Its intended use is to make encapsulating type paperweights. It sets beautifully clear, almost like water, clearer than Takara Cyborg plastic and vinyl. No buffing. Iím still in the very early stages of sawing, sanding and drilling this stuff, though, and of course these processes opaque it considerably, even on the surfaces not worked on. The first bits I have finished were still a little tacky when I did the sawing, sanding and drilling, and they dulled considerably, partly, I think, because I still had a load of resin gunk on my pinkies (it doesnít wash off easily) when I was handling them. Iím hoping that by leaving pieces to dry for a week or so, they will handle easier for the finishing off process and tarnish less.

Iím not sure if ďBondaĒ, sometimes called ďBondaglassĒ, is a British-only product, but I found it on a British-only Google search. Iím very pleased with the results I have obtained from it so far. It makes the most incredible noise when you drill it, though.

Mixing the translucent pigments in is a tricky business. The yellow is ok but the blue and red need only the tiniest speck or they go too opaque.

So saran wrap is what we call cling film. Does it not leave wrinkles all over a mould and subsequent cast?

Someone has tipped my hand already about what I am making, tee hee! Hopefully this weekend I will be able to reveal all with some photos.
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Kikaider



Joined: 24 Nov 2006
Posts: 128

PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Hypno, I meant use the cling wrap between cured casts and original parts (like a custom head and an original Henshin neck post), just to stop the factory plastic from coming into contact with the hobby plastic, as I don't know what the long term affects might be between the two. EX: The rubber tube that melted the plastic neck ball and shoulder pegs from the Palisades Micronaut series 1.5.

Hey, that Bonda sounds awesome! There are pigments made especially for clear casting (the viscosity is very thin, like water. Looks almost like really dark Kool-Aid). I have a resin fiberglass distributor nearby so I get the colors from them, but you should be able to find online without problems. It sounds like you might be using the pigments for solid resins (looks almost like an acrylic paint)?

I'm really looking forward to seeing the pictures!!
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dokuroking



Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 609
Location: Los Angeles California

PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Hypno,

You need to learn the process of "slush casting". I used to assist teach fx makeup and we used it all the time there. You can do it by hand without any big equipment. Here is a very rough breakdown of it:

1. Create 2 part mold the hole in this case would be the open cyborg neck area.

2. Seal mold together so there are no gaps

3. Pour in your casting material and slowly move the mold so all surfaces are covered.

4. Pour out excess and let the layer slightly begin to set

5. Repeat until desired thickness is obtained.

6. Allow product to fully set

7. Release from mold.

A great 2 part mold for this is made from dental algenate backed by plaster bandage. I don't know which plastic casting material would be best but you could also certainly use silicone if you choose the right one. A friend of mine runs a company that creates sex toys with high end silicone. She cast a dumpling out of the stuff and sent it to me. I couldn't rip that stuff no matter how hard I tried and it cast beautifully.

Anyway I'm sure there are a million possibilities for material choices, but you should give slush molding a shot. It may be a bit tricky at first but you'll get the hang of it in no time.
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GUYx1
Site Admin


Joined: 10 May 2006
Posts: 1493

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where do I start. First off

before I post pics, I must take us back to the PRE Jack magic sketches. This is what we thought.

"It almost looks to me like it had two faces stacked together." - Jack Magic

"A friend once remarked that he thought the Shadow head was like a larger version of the KWII inner brain head. It isnít much, but that ďmouthĒ looks a bit like the ďmouthĒ area on the brain. It looks like a plankton filte." - Hypnotator

Hypno was 100% correct. It is like a variation on that inner head.
Jack was right in that it is like stacked heads.

Ever hear the concept "You wouldn't know a rare toy if it was staring you in the face?

Well that happened to me. When I first saw a Japanese seller posting Takara prototypes I scoffed.

A clear blue inner KWII brain for $150??? Whatever. Then I looked closer. It has a TAIL. A TAIL??? WTF?



Some sort of EYE starfish in back. What is this? I stared at the thing for the better part of a week. Looked at every old Takara Pic I could find.

Now much as I would love to think Takara made vinyl production pieces of half the ideas they intended for 1999.

I did not recognize this head. Thing is I would have known it instantly 5 years ago.

The official 'unofficial' Tomy Micro KWII weekend releases had messed with my mind.



Now I have mentioned before how our forums are monitored in Japan and the world over,

Even by collectors who have pull with the toy companies.

We all want to assume that TOMY would have access to the original prototypes.

That is simply not the case with these one day licenses. they are FAN driven.

Now that I have the head in hand, I know it is the toy in the posters.There is no question.



But if THIS is the Shadow head, Where did Tomy's shadow microman release come from?

It would mean the design came from somewhere OTHER than the Takara vaults.

Japanese collectors made a dead on sculpt of Jack's design, Below is the result. Ask yourself Does it look more like the Takara photo, or more like Jack's sketches?



If it did not come from Takara, I put to you that this ORIGINAL microman

was born out of Jack Magic's Own Imagination, yet released under the TOMY moniker.

JACK MAGIC came up with a 'reinterpretation' that can now be seen as it's own design!

The Design came out of his head and thanks to Tomy has now redefined what people think of the Walder series

By releasing Jack's design as a microman WITHOUT CHECKING THEIR FACTS, it is as if they have rewritten history.

I for one would certainly be willing to help finance a Jack Magic 1/6 'Walder Jack' head...

If only we knew someone who owns the JACK MAGIC microman head.
Can Jack Magic sculpt?
Can anyone recast it in expanding resin to 1/6 scale?
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Guy
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Jackmagic



Joined: 16 Sep 2007
Posts: 159
Location: Chester Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow. First of all I'm flattered that you think that someone used my design. But I'm more than just a little stunned that you somehow were able to obtain an actual Shadow head. Holy freaking cats!

I had actually purchased some sculpting clay a while back but I never got around to making a Shadow head. But now I'd be more interested if somehow you could make a clay impression of the read Shadow head for duplication, even an imperfect copy would be phenomenal.

Your find is remarkable! Congratulations!
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Please look at my web page jackmagic.com.
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KB



Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 317
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guy, I thought this might have gone your way.

I agree, its clear the sculptor of the micro head had never seen the actual Shadow head, as the detail in the front view is very different. However, the micro head is a dead ringer for Jacks sketch.

The confusing thing about the actual head is the profile and rear views - as these were never shown in the adverts. If all you had seen were these then you wouldn't imediately think Shadow.

You've raised the ante though, as before the holey grail was a Shadow head (merely impossible), now we have to find a Jackmagic shadow head as well!

I'm assuming from your photo the Shadow head is now attached to a blue KWII - look forward to seeing pics of the complete figure.
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dokuroking



Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 609
Location: Los Angeles California

PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So guy is the unofficial the SVL kit one?
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GUYx1
Site Admin


Joined: 10 May 2006
Posts: 1493

PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Kit was the set Hypno posted. Several resin kits like that have been released, but in the past,
they have actually had original Takara sculpts to work from.

Apparently no one had this 1/6 head to work off of.
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dokuroking



Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 609
Location: Los Angeles California

PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah thanks for the clarification
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